Tagged: 2018 Thunder Slot
- December 15, 2017 at 10:33 PM #11492
REVOSLOT TIRES MARBLE EASILY
My Shore-30 OEM tires – that I trued and glued – last night started to marble ridiculously.
They gummed up on the cleaner, but thankfully I did not see any skid-marks on the track.
Recos: –do not use lighter fluid when truing; –true to a minimum;
–as Marty confirmed, the tires are very tight so gluing has not yet been found to be necessary.
... I gotta 427, Z-28 a thousand horsepower straight outta the gate ... Frank Marino, "Bottom of the Barrel Blues" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uUCRaGmoMt8December 18, 2017 at 9:14 PM #11494
Ok fellow racers and enthusiasts
My revoslot pinion got loose totally loose
Can I solder it to the motor shaft ????
And if so please check all yours if his happens to me can happen to anyone
During a race !!!!!
Please advise and
ThanksDecember 27, 2017 at 11:24 AM #11500
Thanks for letting us know about the pinion. Something we all need to keep an eye on. You can solder it to the motor shaft if that will work for you. I will be keeping a close eye on mine.
This is what happens when you put too much time into practicing. 🙂
MartyDecember 27, 2017 at 12:28 PM #11502
REVOSLOT ADVICE FROM ALAN (as of 6:30 tonite)
— PINION SLIPPAGE
~~ A drop of RED LocTite (271) where the pinion and shaft tip join (Blue is too weak and solder is too risky)
— PINION LASH
~~ The RVS pinions are ‘sharp’ out of the box and prevent the pinion from seating into the spur correctly – hence the slop and noise. Alan says take off the point by removing the rear axle and spur, then press a emory board against the pinion tips. Monitor with a magnifying glass – look for rounded tips. Alan insists this is a key tuning step.
~~ Alan confirmed that lash is Not set at the factory consistently. After rounding the pinion, set the lash with the motor pod screws.
~~ Use thin tough paper (bible, very thin vellum, thin blueprint paper or parchment, 2-3 rolling-papers, etc.) to gauge how tight the gears should be. Feed the paper between pinion and spur – tighten bolts, then slowly roll out the paper. Laser/copier paper and stiff parchment are too thick.
— POD BOLTS
~~ These actually have 1.5mm head sockets, (Not Torx-6) but may not match the allen wrench that fits the 1.5mm head grub screws. If the allen wrench that fits your grubs does Not also fit the motor pod bolts, either (a) try other 1.5mm wrenches until you find one that fits, (b) get another wrench and carefully sand its facets until it fits the Pod screws. (c) Mark your pod wrench and wheel/spur wrench separately so you don’t strip your bolts or wrenches.
... I gotta 427, Z-28 a thousand horsepower straight outta the gate ... Frank Marino, "Bottom of the Barrel Blues" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uUCRaGmoMt8
January 2, 2018 at 2:26 PM #11511
- This reply was modified 3 weeks ago by BarkingSpyder.
Happy New Year 2018 Series!
Attachments:January 4, 2018 at 4:38 PM #11513
Nice picture Randy! Those are some good looking cars. You should take the same pic at the end of the year and see what the comparison looks like.January 6, 2018 at 11:08 PM #11515January 7, 2018 at 11:37 PM #11527
RevoSlot rules update – minimum front tire diameter post race – the minimum front tire diameter post race has been changed from 19.60mm to 19.40mm. Please prepare your cars to this new standard.
MartyJanuary 8, 2018 at 11:05 AM #11528
Roy had asked that I post what the front tire diameters were post race on Saturday. Here you go.
Marty – 19.69mm
Roy – 19.46mm
Russell – 19.46mm
Shawn – 19.48mm
David – 19.40mm
Jordan – 19.47mm
Alejandro – 19.29mm
Mark – 19.52mm
John – 19.59mm
Randy – 19.??mmJanuary 9, 2018 at 9:23 AM #11529
Preliminary Thunderslot Series Rules
Guys, I apologize because I have been so busy that I have not had time to post rules for the Thunderslot series. Mark has taken the time to produce a set of rules and I have discussed them with him. I will post these preliminary rules shortly, with the goal of having final rules by Feb. 1. That will give everyone a couple of months to get their cars ready for the series.
My thoughts are to keep the cars as stock as possible, with two goals in mind: a level playing field and to keep the costs down. Any changes from stock that make the cars faster, as, say, independent front axles, will mean everyone will need to make the changes to be competitive. Rule changes from stock would primarily be due to a problem with stock parts–erratic behavior, failures, etc.–and not just to make the cars faster. To that end I propose stock chassis, stock anglewinder motor pod, stock guide, stock front wheels, stock motor, gears, axles, etc. The low grip front tires may be OK and either the trued original treaded rear tires or the optional slicks would be allowed. Probably, the optional larger diameter rear wheels may be allowed, due to concern that worn tires on the original wheels may mean that the chassis bottoms out on the track. Personally, I will try the original wheels to see if the tires will last.
I do not see a need for tire diameter specs in this series. With the adjustable front axle height, it is not necessary on the front, and the rears are self-limiting, due to low clearance below the chassis. Track would be limited by not exceeding the width of the body.
Added weight, above the chassis would be allowed. I think installing grub screws in the provided chassis holes on the edge, to control float to the body, would be OK.
Dibs should be called on car liveries. For duplicate liveries, car numbers must be changed. As I was the first to buy one of these cars, I would like to call dibs on the red Lola coupe #2. However, if I decide to run a roadster, this car livery would be available. If more cars become available, they would also be allowed, pending any production changes, different from the original cars. If anyone notices any changes between any of the existing or upcoming cars, such as width, motor, wheels, weight, etc., please bring it to my attention as soon as possible.
I am also considering running the series at 12 volts. I did some brief running with my cars on Saturday, while running the Revo Slot car, and the cars were controllable and very quick. I would like to hear what everyone thinks about this.
If anyone has input as to the rules, please post to this forum. Reasonable rules changes would be considered.
RussellJanuary 11, 2018 at 4:32 PM #11536
I do not like the idea of truing the front tires on stock plastic wheels and force fit axles. My roadster seems to bounce on the un-trued fronts. Marty tells me a very light touch on the truer will preserve the stock tire and wheel, but will it preserve the force fit on the axle?
I have had the #30 Gurney roadster for almost 4 months. I would change the number to 48 if I must to satisfy the “dibs” idea, but only reluctantly. It may be too late to really call dibs. (Letting Slot.it McLarens in the series would make more cars available;)
11 volts seems plenty on this light car.
January 11, 2018 at 4:36 PM #11538
- This reply was modified 1 week ago by Radial TA.
I have changed the number on my blue and silver Revo Slot to 68 with red numbers. Now it also has blue wheels in front and silver in rear to match the body colors.January 11, 2018 at 8:46 PM #11539
I would like to call Daytona 24 hours 1969 (#8) as my car for the Thunderslot series.January 11, 2018 at 10:58 PM #11540
I trued the front tires of the ThunderSlot carefully and discovered three things. The front axle is NOT knurled, so the plastic wheels side off without damage. The plastic wheels have inserts so I could put the tire truer axle through the wheels. I trued very carefully, test driving twice, still hopping after first true. Then discovered that the fronts were true but soft, very unlike our usual hard zero grips. I did not run laps after the last true, but expect real good times. This is also the car that lost a front axle height adjustment grub and I am still waiting for those parts.January 13, 2018 at 12:19 AM #11554
I also will be running the Red coupe #2 ill have to change the number.
Jordan will be running Dana # 52
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