2019 Slot.it Group C

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This topic contains 22 replies, has 7 voices, and was last updated by Datto Datto 2 months, 1 week ago.

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 23 total)
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  • #13175
    Radial TA
    Radial TA
    Participant

    All – The official 2019 Austin Slot Car Club Race Schedule is published.  The only small change we might want to discuss is the timing of the Thunderslot series and the availability of the new McLaren cars from Thunderslot.  We might think about moving that series back from Q2 to Q3 and move up the NSR 908/3 series to Q2 from Q3.  We can discuss at our next meeting.  Please post any additional questions or concerns.</p>

    • This topic was modified 5 months, 1 week ago by Radial TA Radial TA.
    #13189
    StabnSteer
    StabnSteer
    Participant

    Curious about this rule in this series:

    Front axle lower adjustment caps allowed

    I’ve been searching for these, without any luck.

    And it would suggest that if one was to apply lower adjustment caps, they’d just make the front suspension floppy, since we are not allowed to change the tops of the front suspension (I have the Lancia and Mercedes, and neither have screw holes on the top of the suspension bearings as are shown in the “how to” videos). Can someone enlighten me here before I have to tech anyone? 🙂

    --Stabn'Steer

    • This reply was modified 5 months, 1 week ago by StabnSteer StabnSteer.
    #13193
    StabnSteer
    StabnSteer
    Participant

    I have Martini Lancia LC2 #5 – was anyone else running this livery? Want to know if I need to figure out a number swap…

    --Stabn'Steer

    #13195
    porsche917
    porsche917
    Moderator

    Nice choice.  The Lancia’s have been very fast on our track.

    #13198
    Autorama
    Autorama
    Keymaster

    Curious about this rule in this series: Front axle lower adjustment caps allowed I’ve been searching for these, without any luck. And it would suggest that if one was to apply lower adjustment caps, they’d just make the front suspension floppy, since we are not allowed to change the tops of the front suspension (I have the Lancia and Mercedes, and neither have screw holes on the top of the suspension bearings as are shown in the “how to” videos). Can someone enlighten me here before I have to tech anyone? 🙂

    Erik,

    Slot.it’s first generation chassis did not include the front axle screw adjustment – in fact, there was no way to properly adjust the height.

    In the first gen chassis the max height of the front axle was fixed – determined by the height of the front axle support arches. The lower height limit could be adjusted by the removal of a plastic cap that was mounted in a fixed height support in the chassis – which in turn dictated the lower limit.

    I have attached a PDF review of the Lancia LC2 84 created by David Kennedy for Slot Car Illustrated where you can see the first gen chassis and the “axle adjustment. Note that although he does not mention it, removing the plastic cap would introduce a massive amount of vertical play in the front axle.

    My honest suggestion, given that your chassis do not have top adjustment, would be to simply buy the latest iteration of chassis for that specific model – it will have the top and bottom adjustments.

     

    #13240
    BarkingSpyder
    BarkingSpyder
    Participant

    Erik – see if any replacement chassis are available. I have had poor luck consistently finding them in stock.  I think this upgrade chassis fits your Lancia model (SICA-08)
    #Slot.it SICS08T-60B Lancia LC2-Chassis EVO6 for SICA08 & SICA21
    https://www.professormotor.com/product-p/sics08t-60b.htm

    If not – there are at least 2 other ways you can set basic axle height. Once you have created a stable axle height you fine tune the tire height with guide spacers.

    ... Fire up the willing engine, responding with a roar! Tires spitting gravel, I commit my weekly crime... Rush - Red Barchetta

    #13247
    StabnSteer
    StabnSteer
    Participant

    Thanks all for the info. I thought I had the latest chassis, but I can see now the EVO6 chassis is necessary to have the screw holes already there. Interestingly, I have 2 different non-EVO6 chassis, which is why I thought I had the updated one. Onward and upward!!

    --Stabn'Steer

    #13483
    Datto
    Datto
    Participant

    Newbie question. Do we have to sign up in advance of the series, or do we show up on race day?

    #13484
    StabnSteer
    StabnSteer
    Participant

    Hi Datto,

    Just come on out! I believe that if you happen to have a car that has the same livery/number as someone who is already running, we’ll make you change the number – but that’s about it. If you don’t have numbers to slap on it, I’m sure someone will have something you can use.

    --Stabn'Steer

    #13486
    BarkingSpyder
    BarkingSpyder
    Participant

    Mark (“not_spyder”) – for most race series we do not require advance-declaration, you can show up on the first day or any following weekend. The only condition is that you Have prepp’ed your car to comply with the published rules. For example, for the Group-C you cannot enter a GP-C Carrera or Fly even if the livery, body, etc. match the real Group-C era. But, for more ‘open’ spec series as long as you avoid anything ‘Prohibited’ you can enter.

    As Erick said, if you have a duplicate livery, many of us have spare numbers or decals to make your car unique. A strip of black or colored electrical tape on the wing may be good enough.

    **Naturally, Do Not Avoid Practice and show up Sat at 1:10pm expecting to do decent-get some practice time in Thurs nights (6-9p) and Sat morning (10a-12:45p)**

    If you have submitted your member application and first-years dues, all you need is $5 (and some patience)! Our $300 DeFalco controllers, $200 tire-truers, $70 pinion presses etc are yours to borrow for free! It is recommended you race at least 5 rounds of a series, but you can race one weekend or all six; and you can start whatever weekend you are ready.

    Note for the Group-C – a Quarterly race, we generally race two weekends each month, usually the first and third Sat. The 2nd Sat is when we have the half-year series and a team meeting. The 4th week is used for -events at COTA, -extra build and practice for current or upcoming series, -fun events (HO, Drags, vintage, ad-hoc), -or hangout with your family :O

    EXPECTATIONS – you may do Great or Bad in your first race. No Big Deal – everyone will help you tune your car and driving techniques, as much as you want and accept. We All have good and bad races; but we come back for the fun and camaraderie! It often takes a few series before you get the “feel” of the track and how much tuning is needed for being competitive. We will help you develop both your driving and engineering skills, as well as sharing what vendors are good sources and what parts are interchangeable among series.  Likewise most members will lend you whatever tools you need or sell/trade a part you need (but have not received in the mail yet).

    If you don’t think your car is ready – you can still race! Many members have ‘spares’ in their livery that you can borrow for free (on race day), and of course you can use the DeFalco or PARMA controllers for free. If you are a member you pay $5, if not yet $10. You do Not have to pay for all races in the future of a series; just pay as you play.

    If you choose to sit out-you can learn alot by Marshaling; *after watching experienced members marshal. Pay close attention to lane colors, don’t look away from your corner, don’t think too-much and take too much time to re-slot a car.

    Group-C prep is real EASY. Buy a Porsche 962 or 956; or Lancia. Add Slot.It Zero-grip tires up front, Slot.It F30s in the rear. Replace the stock guide with a Slot.It “deep wood” guide and GO! After the first race or some practice you *may want to add one Slot.It “magnet shaped tungsten weight” in front of the motor, and maybe replace the OEM black crown gear with a hotter Blue or Orange crown. There is not much more you are Allowed to do and in most cases not much you really Want to do to the car! The next trick is learn the “feel” of the track and how to drive it (e.g. where and how long to brake). It is typical to take three or more races to get the feel of the track under the pressure of racing – but it is all fun and if you stick it out you will love it!

    ... Fire up the willing engine, responding with a roar! Tires spitting gravel, I commit my weekly crime... Rush - Red Barchetta

    #13487
    BarkingSpyder
    BarkingSpyder
    Participant

    Erick – great car! Lancias are in the minority but the ones that run seem to be competitive. Yes you may want to have a labeler ready to make a new number (I have one at the track). A tape stripe on the wing or a few alternate sponsor decals may also be useful.

    With the non-adjustable chassis, you can still adjust downward axle height with an Eyelit, and upward height with x2 2mm*5mm grub screws in 2mm drilled holes (many chassis have at least the dimples for the bottom grubs) .

    ... Fire up the willing engine, responding with a roar! Tires spitting gravel, I commit my weekly crime... Rush - Red Barchetta

    #13496
    Datto
    Datto
    Participant

    Mark, thank you for all the advice and information. I did not know about the Saturday morning practice time (Thursday nights will be difficult for me)

    I did make the plunge and by the Lancia LC2 in a green and red livery, wearing #6. Seems to have shipped with the yellow (28 tooth?) Crown.
    Lancia LC2

    Glad to know I can use the club controller, mine just send cars into the wall (Profesor Motor Carerra)

    i have been looking at slot car corner and Prof motor for the tires. Zero grip seem available, but I’m not finding F30 for the rears.

    AS far as expectations, for starters, I aim not to make the marshalls hate me 🙂

    #13497
    porsche917
    porsche917
    Moderator

    Erick – Last time I checked Kings had some F30’s in stock.  If they don’t, 132slotcar.us has them in stock.

    Chassis – I don’t know if your new car comes with the adjustable chassis but if it does not it is well worth the $10 to get one.  The other thing you would want to do is “bake” the chassis to make it as flat as possible.  I can do it for you if you are not set up for it.

    Looking forward to running with you.

    #13509
    Datto
    Datto
    Participant

    Erick – Last time I checked Kings had some F30’s in stock. If they don’t, 132slotcar.us has them in stock.

    Chassis – I don’t know if your new car comes with the adjustable chassis but if it does not it is well worth the $10 to get one. The other thing you would want to do is “bake” the chassis to make it as flat as possible. I can do it for you if you are not set up for it.

    Looking forward to running with you.

    i think mine is the adjustable chassis (new to RTR stuff) There are little inserts with the front axle bushings (plastic) and little removable caps on the axle lower limit spacers.

    I watched your video on truing the chassis, but the only semi dependably flat piece of iron I have is the band saw table, and that’s maybe a bit big, and attached to the band saw 😉

    #13512
    chapracer65
    chapracer65
    Participant

    The adjustable front axle chassis have holes in the top of the axle hoop and the bottom of the chassis that will accept grub screws.  The lower holes are somewhat inboard of the axle hoops.

    The adjustment screws are the same diameter as wheel grub screws.  Wheel grub screws can be used for the top screw but longer ones are required for the bottom.  The best screws to use are the ones from Slot Car Corner; they have an oval head.  The available Slot.it screws will work fine, though.  With these screws, the axle height can be precisely adjusted to get the front tires just barely off the track surface.

    This setup is one of the minor tweaks that will produce smoother running and slightly faster lap times but will still not result in as much difference as familiarity with the track and getting in more practice laps.

    Good Luck!

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