Tagged: Q3 Scaleauto Series
May 28, 2018 at 12:11 PM #12325
Hints for whitekit builders: https://www.austinslotcarclub.com/forums/topic/scaleauto-124-white-kit-building-tips/
... Fire up the willing engine, responding with a roar! Tires spitting gravel, I commit my weekly crime... Rush - Red BarchettaMay 28, 2018 at 12:19 PM #12326
One of my new MJK-4118 tires ripped 1/32in upon mounting. I gambled and proceeded to truing; no more rips occurred but an internal rip and molding faults appeared after the sheen of the urethane was removed by the truing; I proceeded to practice.
After appx 20 laps a new 1/16in rip appeared, while the original rip remained the same size, but the tire remained mounted. Since I did not want the tire to fly off and my car to damage someone else’s car I stopped.
I will update this forum if any issues occur after mounting a replacement (the other tire appears to not have any issues) – e.g. other rips or molding defects in the new tire.
... Fire up the willing engine, responding with a roar! Tires spitting gravel, I commit my weekly crime... Rush - Red BarchettaMay 28, 2018 at 2:46 PM #12327
Marty, Shawn and All, in reply and reference to 12293, 12292, 12290, 12281, 12279, 12225-Q1
SG_Q1 12293: “What are you trying to accomplish here?”
1) I am simply trying to encourage an open approach for senior members who posses knowledge and experience that some others may not have, to share that knowledge without reservation. This *should be the spirit of the club – to foster open and non-threatening exchange of information among club members.
2) Further, by example we should support and *train New Series Managers to be prepared to clearly explain the factual, technical rational that resulted in the decision to make the stipulations of the spec.
Naturally I am not expecting the research to the stated in the rules themselves, but if questions are raised, answers should be provided openly (on the forum) in a friendly manner. Further, if the series has started and no questions were raised prior to the start, the SM can re-iterate that people had X weeks to ask questions.
Replies with no details, justified by the rationale of “It is illegal… it’s the rules… I am wasting my time answering your questions” sounds like a parent saying “because I said so”, rather than a knowledgeable member helping other members.
SG_Q2: “What are you trying to learn?”
1. First, I was Not asking how to add the illegal parts to the SC8000 chassis and second I was Not Challenging the rule.
2. My intent was fairly simple – 12279 was intended to understand why a racer could not spend $75 making their SC8000 chassis equal to a $150-180 car with the SC8003; which was introduced to the club in [post 11993, March 12] with statements such as ‘the new chassis (SC8003) far out performed the old one’ …’the adjustable front axle helps keep the rear tires flat’. As I said in 12290 “I am simply trying to help All of us to be enlightened”.
3. Since I have two SC8000 cars I was wondering (as I assume other members did) (a) should I invest another $150-180 in a SC8003 car to be *Equal with others who bought SC8003 cars, and (b) since cost is stated as a concern, what is the clear technical reason why a racer is not allowed to simply spend $75-80 on an upgrade kit, rather then buying an SC8003 car just to be on equal footing.
1. I have NO MORE QUESTIONS – I finally got them answered, including my own research that the chassis are so Significantly different that trying to upgrade the steel chassis to match the aluminum chassis and all the other component changes may result in a frankenstein that takes forever to tune – and may never be as good as either the OEM SC8000 or SC8003.
2. More importantly – Shawn – I THANK YOU for your reveal in 12293 that after testing both chassis, you saw no significant advantage in either chassis, (not previously stated in this thread).
3. I am sticking with my SC8000s.
4. All – I would Never have raised any questions if everything was obvious. Re-stating rules and re-iterating that they are unambiguous does Not answer the fundamental question of “what is the Reason behind the rules”. More effort was spent questioning my motives and telling me I should not ask any questions than actually answering the questions – so that Future Series Managers can Learn how they should research cars, parts and make decisions (and answer questions :O )
... Fire up the willing engine, responding with a roar! Tires spitting gravel, I commit my weekly crime... Rush - Red BarchettaJune 11, 2018 at 1:05 PM #12347
THANKS to Marty for the ad-hoc ScaleAuto tuning-tricks session he held last Sat June 9 regarding the “float plate” and improving front axle bearing smoothness! Gathered round with rapt attention were Randy, John, Dave, Steve and Mark.
ALSO – thanks in advance to Alex for crafting a CNC template for scrutineering the a) F&R tracks and b) tire-outside diameters (plus thx to Marty for leaving his MRRC clearance plate setup-block at the track).
** ScaleAuto-#1 is June 23 so we have two short weeks to tune and practice; bring your cars this Sat after the final Thunderslot race! p.s. we will also have the ARK opened up for Rally practice, (also on 6/30 as planned, and on 6/23 if there is enough interest).July 19, 2018 at 8:24 PM #12802
I installed the recommended SC-2715p tire aNd wheel, but the disc brake and insert do not fit into the wheel. What is allowed to get the insert and brake set in/on the wheel?July 20, 2018 at 10:05 PM #12804
As per Marty’s email, carefully thin the insert (using light sandpaper strokes from the axle side), being careful not to eat into the rotor. Also you can carefully sand by hand *spots (3 sides) of the insert’s Rim until it slides in with a tight fit. And sometimes you just gotta use a little drop of ShoeGoo on either the axle side or the rim.// sorry Marty I lost your email or I would have posted it verbatim – please enjoy your trip to Cleveland. There are some great bars in the “docks” area; you can find some real down to earth rock-an-roll in Cleveland!July 20, 2018 at 10:12 PM #12805
Done including thinning the backside of the calipers and thinning the outer rim a little. I might be fighting very fine filings for a month.July 20, 2018 at 10:24 PM #12807
Be careful you don’t weaken those rotors too much – the extra traction from your BFGoodrich tires may warp them from too much heat 😉 p.s. I was posting for the public not u since u already saw his message!July 21, 2018 at 3:42 PM #12810
By my calculations, halfway through the Scale Auto Series, after figuring a mandatory drop of one race, the standings are as follows:
1st Steve 39 points
2nd Marty 38 points
———-Shawn 38 points
———-Russell 38 points
5th Randy 37 points
6th David 35 points
7th John 31 points
8th Mark 29 points
It doesn’t get much closer than that!July 24, 2018 at 11:25 AM #12846
WOW! That it amazing. It’s amazing to see how different racers have excelled in different races. No one is dominating the series and the smallest mistake or set up error can cost dearly. It will be interesting to see if the final three races are as gentlemanly as the first three. Things could get tense when battling in the turns with some you are tied in points with. Let’s hope the clerk of the course will not have to become involved.July 24, 2018 at 8:12 PM #12847
I thought the marshaling was good last week. I was surprised to knock David off in the esses when I thought I would let him pass on the bridge.
i would suggest that cars off of the track for repairs be put back on the track at one of the two end corners by a marshal when the approach is clear of oncoming cars. I was blinded a few times by cars coming back to race on the esses.
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