Tagged: Slot.IT DTM Proxy Race 2020
- October 22, 2020 at 10:01 AM #15498
Will the cars be in Parc Ferme for the duration of the series; that is, the owners will not be allowed to work on them between races? – Cars will be in Parc Ferme during the race but can be worked on between the races, not the heats of a race. Only the series manager is allowed to work on the cars during a race.
If a wing falls off during a heat it must be put back on the car before starting the next heat. This can be done using tape.
Clear enough. If my wing breaks during a race, please withdraw the car immediately. Make no attempt to repair/replace the wing. A broken wing means that race is over for the car. – Russell, your wing can be reattached to the car using tape before the next heat. There is no need to withdraw a car for something like this. I am attaching an example of a wing attachment that was done in another proxy with the car that finished second in the series. Not beautiful but required by the rules.
October 22, 2020 at 10:42 AM #15501
- This reply was modified 1 month, 1 week ago by porsche917.
Clarification, please. The wing rule you refer to above is not the DTM race rule. The DTM rule states that wings must be replaced during green flag running. The rule you state is only that the wing has to be on at the START of a heat. Which is it? We have race rules written both ways.
Also, you previously stated that the ends of the wings cannot be reinforced by tape. So, they can’t be reinforced by tape, but tape can be used to re-install it?
RussellOctober 22, 2020 at 10:46 AM #15502
Russell – You are correct, there are two sets of rules. One was for the ASCC’s Q4 Slot It DTM series that we are not running and the other is for the Slot It DTM Proxy that we are running. The DTM proxy rules are attached to the first post on this thread and have not changed since they were posted. Those are the rules for this Proxy series.
October 22, 2020 at 11:50 AM #15504
- This reply was modified 1 month, 1 week ago by porsche917.
I did not see the attachment on the first post. I only saw the original Q4 rules.
RussellOctober 22, 2020 at 6:26 PM #15517
WING RULE QUESTION – To reinforce the Opel’s wing, with extra tiny struts, I glued a piece of styrene ‘between’ the wing struts (license plate size). Legal?
"Come On! Lets go space trucking!" Deep PurpleOctober 22, 2020 at 6:33 PM #15520
"Come On! Lets go space trucking!" Deep PurpleOctober 23, 2020 at 3:28 PM #15557
DTM TUNING CHALLENGES
1. BODY FLOAT – a very light/little looseness of the body screws prevents several handling issues. Float needs to come from the MotorPod. Lap Times instantly decreased by 0.2sec (4.4 > 4.2s)
2. GEAR RATIO-Orange(25) seems to be the best compromise for my Opel. Unless you are a “Mush” button user, or have a light “finger”, Green(24) can jack-rabbit in the climbs out of the esses and coming out of the “button” turn (a.k.a. T6, T7) Blue(26) is controllable but Slow.
3. WEIGHT DISTRO ****
With an Orange(25) crown, a single 2.5 Slot.IT tungsten “slug” in the Front Pod slot seems to balance the Opel. A 2nd “slug” in the Rear Pod slot (e.g. NOT recommended) makes the car easier to handle in the corners, but encourages the Fishtail coming out of the Esses (a.k.a. T3), and at the button (T6, 7). Randy reported better handling of his Merc with a few grams behind the Guide; my Opel (with alloy front wheels) does not seem to need that.
** Dave reported that two small lead disks (1/2 to 1gram each) on the outer edge of the pan, appx 3/8in ahead (8-9mm) of the Front Pod slot, improved his handling. Make sure they are 1-2mm away from the edge of the chassis so that the body skirt is not hitting them.
For the ASCC Rounds, F30s (SIPT28) seem to have plenty of grip, but chatter in the corners, even if well-trued and radiused (probably the rear weight trying to drift).
Some people are experimenting with F22 (SIPT1207F22 D19.7-21 x W10mm; NOT SIPT29 D20.8 x W12.4) and N22 tires (SIPT1171N22 D19.7-21 x W10mm)
For the HSARC Rounds, Marty says they recommend the OEM tires, have a C1 compound (the catalog says they are designed for Scalextric and Ninco abrasive tracks) The stock tires may be SIPT1228-C1 (D17.8 x W9.5), or SIPT1159-C1 (D17.2 x W9.5) [in case you need to chase them down in your spares box!]
As usual, replace the M2 grubs with eyelets for the motor wires.
For the ASCC Rounds, Marty approved our typical SICH07 “deep-wood-guide” which has a 7mm deep blade, with an 27mm Length.
For the HSARC Rounds, Marty says they recommend either the OEM snap in guide, or the screw SICH10 “racing-guide” which has a 21mm Length. (I assume the 27 mm blade of the SICH07 may bind in the sharp 90-deg corners they have?)
"Come On! Lets go space trucking!" Deep PurpleOctober 23, 2020 at 10:40 PM #15559
Thanks for the info. It is very helpful, especially with new cars. So David put some weight outboard on the chassis; now that would increase the roll resistance at that point, like a heavier anti-roll bar. It’s the difference when you are spinning in an office chair whether you extend your arms and legs or pull into a ball. And so you could further tune the suspension by changing the roll resistance front to rear…..
RussellNovember 16, 2020 at 4:03 PM #15666
TIRES FOR THE HSARC TRACK
C1 compound tires are standard OEM on many Slot.ITs
Using a magnifying glass on the branded (e.g goodyear, firestone, pirelli …) OEM tires you will find many of them are PT1159s, which has a C1 compound, and close to the same size as the PT28(F30)s. PT1159C1 9.5 W x 17.2 D (should be tight even without glue)
as compared to the PT28(F30) 10 W x 19.5 D
Most of us have these C1 spare tires rattling around in our pitboxes, unless we trashed them or used them on static models. These can be glued with CA, rubberized black CA, or ShoeGoo.
OTHER C1 TIRES THAT MAY BE IN YOUR SPARES:
PT1228C1 9.5 W x 17.8 D
PT35 (1140) 9.5 W x 19.8 D
PT34 (1145) 10 W x 18.5 D
PT2121C1 (1121 = 10 x 19.5) same size as F30
SLOT.IT NUMBERING SCHEMES: Slot.IT part numbers often, but not always, are the 4-digit Drawing aka Mold number. Some part numbers seem to have no meaning (e.g. PT28, PT34) while others include the compound (e.g. PT1228C1, PT1172N22).
The “C” in the compound name is for Carerra; Tires with a “P” in their compound name (P1, P6) the “P” is for plastic (or Perspex) as in Scalextric, Ninco, Carrera tracks. The ones with a “N” are usually 22-shore with a hybrid or full Urethane base, “N” = Ninco since the tires are made to dig into the gritty Ninco track surface. N22 tires are basically equal to NSR Ultragrips; leave lots of grey dust.
Slot.IT does not either (a) have an explicit documented reference of the compound Prefix meanings, it is derived from the recommended surfaces they match the tires to.
(b) consistency in including the Mold-number (e.g. the 11xx or 12xx etc.) or compound number on the tire.
For example, tires with a “P6” compound only have the Slot.IT name on the Sidewall, the only clue they are P6s is they are near the same size as a PT28(F30), they are rubber-based and almost as soft as F30s. There are 3 P6 tires, PT24, PT25, PT1207P6.
(c) Consistency across the years on part numbers.
"Come On! Lets go space trucking!" Deep PurpleNovember 16, 2020 at 4:40 PM #15667
GUIDE FOR THE HSARC TRACK
HSARC recommended either the OEM snap-in guide, or the screw SICH10 “racing-guide”.
The original guide has a 21mm blade Length (6.5mm depth, 1.25 thickness). A CH10 seems to be 18mm in length (no ‘battleship’ leading edge). A CH85 is a screw version of the original guide, with a small 3mm leading edge (for 21mm)
I was wrong in a previous post – the ‘deep-wood/routed’ guide SICH07 has a 24mm blade Length
not 27mm from the previous post. Depth is 8mm vs the OEM blades with 6.5mm depth.
OEM/CH85 Depth 6.50 Length 21mm Thick 1.25
CH10 Depth 6.50 Length 18mm Thick 1.25
CH07 Depth 8.00 Length 24mm Thick 2.00
Scaleauto Red Depth 8.00 Length 23mm Thick 1.75
1-24 Depth 8.00 Length 23mm Thick 2.00 //parma, slick-7, koford etc
Carrera Depth 7.75 Length 26mm Thick 1.75
Scalextric Depth 6.75 Length 18mm Thick 1.25
"Come On! Lets go space trucking!" Deep PurpleNovember 18, 2020 at 10:49 AM #15668Radial TAParticipant
Are we going to have a time after our last Austin race before the cars are shipped to Houston to change tires and guides. Is there really a need to change F30 tires? I suppose I’ll put the OEM snap in guide back in unless I find a screw in guide in my box. When is the date for shipping cars to Houston?November 19, 2020 at 11:35 AM #15683
Randy and All – All of us will have time to work on our cars before they get shipped to Scale Auto Racing. Everyone can pick up their cars starting Saturday after the race. I need them back at Headquarters by the 30th so I can get them boxed up and shipped off. I will send out an email to all the participants to make sure everyone understands this.
Don’t hesitate to reach out to me if you have any questions on setting up your car for the HSCRC track.November 26, 2020 at 3:29 PM #15721
FOR REFERENCE Pix of HSARC Track
"Come On! Lets go space trucking!" Deep PurpleNovember 28, 2020 at 6:58 PM #15725
Marty I cannot find the latest setup info on the Houston track. Just one of the early ones reco. C1s, 26 or 27 crown with a 9z pinion, Ch10 guide and maybe a few more details. Nothing on front axle height, braid depth etc. Please insert the post number or link. Spyder out.
"Come On! Lets go space trucking!" Deep PurpleNovember 29, 2020 at 10:29 AM #15726
That is all the information I have. The only piece missing is the depth of the braid on their track relative to the surface. They didn’t understand what that was when I asked for it. I will be trying again today and let you know as soon as I have something to add.
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