Tagged: Thunder Slot Specs
- January 30, 2018 at 7:11 PM #11694January 30, 2018 at 9:51 PM #11708
Do the NSRs fit the wheels OK? What is the part number? If the Thunderslot hard tires are so bad, it looks like it it will either be the NSRs or the stock treaded tires. Anyone else tried the optional tires?
I will extend the date for final Thunderslot rules to this weekend.
This is the car that I will be running:January 31, 2018 at 2:50 PM #11714
I trued the front stock tires on the stock plastic wheels like Marty suggested. Slow and light touch. They are round now but they have differing amounts of tread in patches around the tire. If I followed the regular club practice of truing tires until all of the tread is gone, I might have problems, but so far so good. The read slicks that came in the box are OK, but they lost a little chunk where the grub screw driver passes against the sidewall of the tire.
I’ll have the car long Saturday if you want to check it out.January 31, 2018 at 4:10 PM #11716
The NSR front tires seem to work fine on the plastic front wheels as the dimensions are very similar to the NSR wheels. The tires are 18×8 size and are part number 5226. I have trued one and it came out nice and I will true the other one this evening and let you know how it goes.
I could true the stock tires but I was afraid they would gum up when I went to true them down as much as I need to. Thoughts?February 1, 2018 at 9:37 AM #11718
OK, I take back what I said in my last post. The NSR tires are ever sol slightly too big and move around on the ThurderSlot front wheels. I also tried some Slot It front tires but had the same issue. I then moved to the stock tires and tried to true them to the point where they didn’t have any tread and in doing so melted the rubber because the tires are too soft. I am trying to clean them up and see if I can get them to work. Does anyone have any suggestions?February 1, 2018 at 11:14 AM #11723
ThunderSlot just announced their new cars for 2018. Here is the one we need now!February 1, 2018 at 11:37 AM #11724
I have trued both the stock, treaded rear tires and the standard slick rear tires with no issue. I was surprised to hear that you had trouble with the stock fronts. In my cars, the stock fronts were already pretty round and I have not noticed any issue or bouncing of the front end. I have not yet tried truing the stock fronts.
The Thunderslot McLarens would be welcome in the series, pending a check of the cars for differences. If there is a difference in width, we would need to have a track spec. I was hoping to get by without one, just using the rule about extending past the body. I have noticed that the roadster Lola body may be slightly narrower in the rear than the coupe. In my swapping of chassis between the coupe and the roadster, I did not adjust the chassis when I went back and forth. The roadster was just slightly faster, a factor that may be mitigated if it can has a slightly narrower rear track.February 1, 2018 at 7:01 PM #11726
I just trued two sets of the original treaded front tires and did not have a problem. I took it slow, did not use any lighter fluid. It is not necessary to completely erase the tread; you only need to true until the tire is round. My preference is to run these tires, but we can vote by Saturday about allowing the Slot.it 15X8 standard aluminum front wheel with Slot.it Zero Grips as options. Please vote either in this forum or at the race on Saturday.
Also, I believe that Thunderslot no longer uses the #4-40 sets screw and instead uses the M2.5X3 grub screws for everything. Care must be taken with rear wheels to see which screw the wheels take. My earlier ones were #4-40 but my white kit came with all M2.5X3 screws, which fit the wheels that came with the kit.
RussellFebruary 1, 2018 at 11:41 PM #11744
Let’s cut to the chase and use Slot.It 15X8 alloys (SIW15808215A) with SIPT-15 17×10 Zero Grips
... I gotta 427, Z-28 a thousand horsepower straight outta the gate ... Frank Marino, "Bottom of the Barrel Blues" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uUCRaGmoMt8February 2, 2018 at 9:39 AM #11770
Allow Slot.It 15X8 alloys (SIW15808215A) with SIPT-15 17×10 Zero Grips in addition to stock plastic wheels and treaded tires or optional THTYR003FR X8 zero grips. Magnesium wheels not allowed. Tires can be trued and edges rounded.
AgainstFebruary 5, 2018 at 8:38 AM #11787
Russsell – I think I broke some rules in setting up my Thunderslot car but wanted to run it by you. I didn’t have any Slot It 15″ alloy short hub wheels so I used the Slot It 15″ plastic front wheels that come stock on all Slot It cars. Will these be allowed since the wheels that came off of the Thunderslot are basically the same thing?
I also did not have any Slot It guides and installed a Scaleauto one in its place. We have always allowed either a Scaleauto or Slot It guide so I didn’t know if this would be allowed. I would just run the stock guide but one of the screws holding the wire was striped and there was nothing I could do to fix it.
Thoughts?February 11, 2018 at 10:48 PM #11840
What times are everyone running? Are the spyders running any faster than the coupes?
MartyFebruary 12, 2018 at 8:38 AM #11856
My intention for the series was to run the cars as stock as possible. The cars are nearly a 4 second car out of the box and I did not really see a reason to change anything. I wanted to minimize cost and have equalized cars in a driver’s series. The natural tendency with a slot car is to do everything you can to make the car quicker. Setup skill and parts selection play heavily into this. I only wanted to allow changes due to erratic behavior or problems with the stock parts. An example of what I did not want were independent front axles. This would probably make the cars faster, but if it was allowed, everyone would need to do it to be competitive.
In hindsight, I should have said that the original, treaded tires and original wheels would be required. Even without truing, the two cars I had ran well. But…..we usually allow hard front tires, and there were slicks available for the rear, so I went along with allowing them. Then, some members had trouble with truing the Thunderslot front tires and Slot.it ZeroGrips would not fit, so I said OK to the Slot.it 15 X 8 aluminum front wheel, figuring this was an easily available and cheap alternative. Now, if we allow the Slot.it plastic wheel, this brings a third wheel and third tire into the mix. Undoubtedly, one of these setups will be quicker than the others, so to get the fastest car, members may need to buy all the options and try them out, which defeats the purpose of a simple, driver’s series.
By the same token, allowing the Scale Auto quide may result in the same situation. In the past we have generally allowed Slot.it wood guides in nearly all series as the guide of choice. This guide is nearly 2mm. deeper than the Thunderslot guide. I don’t have a Scale Auto guide so I don’t know it’s dimensions and performance, but it could be a situation where it is faster. Then everyone may need to switch. As an alternative, I will make all grub screws on the ThunderSlot car open, so you could use a different screw in the Thunderslot guide.
I am sorry that there have been problems; it seems to be typical for a try-to-be stock series.February 16, 2018 at 7:48 PM #11850
Detailing the interior of the Thunderslot Lola T70
I detailed the interior of the Thunderslot Lola T70 Spyder white kit. The back panel of the interior should be body color, so I masked the interior and painted it with the same DupliColor paint as the body. Then I painted the rest of the interior with Model Master Non-buffing Aluminum Metalizer. The restored Gurney car was dual black seat inserts but most of the cars in period only had a driver’s seat and the other side was left bare aluminum. I painted the driver’s side flat black. The filler covers on the top of the side fuel tanks are just blobs on the vacuum interior, so I cut some .002″ Stainless sheet to the oval shape, dimpling around the edges to simulate the bolts, and using a hole punch in the middle where the filler cap is. The stainless was a little too shiny so I brushed a coat of flat clear on top and then glued the covers in place. The “dash” cross member is painted in some of the Lolas; in others it is left in aluminum, so I painted it with the metalizer. I painted the instrument panel flat black, then used a #11 blade to scrape the paint off of the instrument bezels and the numeral bumps inside. I topped it off with some red detail paint and a drop of canopy glue for the dial lenses. After painting the driver figure, I decided to make some seat belts. I put a length of blue masking tape on a piece of glass, cut it into narrow strips, and blackened it with a Sharpie. I cut small pieces of the stainless sheet and bent it around the tape, and putting a drop of black in the middle with a Sharpie. The strips are glued to the back side of the bottom of the driver’s torso, run up over the chest, and into holes in the back panel of the interior. None of the roll bars in the kit were correct for the #21 car, so I used a bent paper clip. Finally, I added some wiring to the front of the instrument panel, using some wire from an old wired “mouse”.
February 16, 2018 at 10:25 PM #11854
- This reply was modified 3 months ago by chapracer65.
So far on Thursday evenings David and I have my roadster and his coupe. As best I can tell David is a better driver than me, but the racing is close with 4.0′ s and some sub 4’s. We have practiced in real drastically different track conditions. I have broken the 4.0 second barrier, but not as often as David. David has not expressed faults on my car recently so it must be getting close. I am not having guide problems with the stock guide. We have changed our front wheels to aluminum and I think Zero grips, but I think the Goodyear fronts may be ok. I only have the tiniest ballast (little finger nail size) near the guide.
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