THUNDER SLOT DISCUSSION

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This topic contains 58 replies, has 7 voices, and was last updated by BarkingSpyder BarkingSpyder 3 weeks, 1 day ago.

Viewing 15 posts - 31 through 45 (of 59 total)
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  • #11862
    chapracer65
    chapracer65
    Participant

    RULES CHANGE:  THE THUNDERSLOT SERIES WILL BE RUN AT 12 VOLTS

    After the RevoSlot race today we tested the Thunderslot cars with multiple drivers at both 11 volts and 12 volts.  The cars were stable and driveable at 12 volts and the decision was made to run the series at 12 volts.

    I was able to run a lap of 3.740 seconds at twelve volts in my #21 spyder.  I took the chassis out of that car and put it in my coupe body and ran a lap of 3.744 seconds.  It was slightly more difficult to run regular laps as fast in the coupe.  Regular laps were 2 to 4 hundredths slower in the coupe.  Try to measure .04 seconds with a stopwatch!  David ran a lap of 3.798 seconds but had not yet added weight to the front.

    My chassis has the original, treaded front tires which had been trued on the original plastic wheels, with tread still visible.  The optional, slick rear tires had been trued on the original rear wheels.  I adjusted the front axle height, installed grub screws on the edges of the chassis to adjust chassis to body clearance, and added a small weight between the front axle and the guide post.  With the testing, it appears the spyder and coupe were very close in time.  A little tweaking of the chassis to the coupe body may have helped.  The coupe body is slightly wider at the rear, which would allow a rear track 1 or 2 mm wider.  Driver skill should make more of a difference than choosing between the coupe and spyder.  Speeds on the various cars running were close.

    Expectations are that this will be a fun series to run.  If you have not purchased your car yet, there is still time!

    • This reply was modified 4 months ago by chapracer65 chapracer65.
    #11868
    porsche917
    porsche917
    Moderator

    Russell,

    I noticed on Thunderslot’s home page that they are running a spec series with rules very similar to ours.  The one thing of note was the following:

    8) is allowed the shimming of the front columns of the coach of the Lola T 70 CAN AM (Spyder) with spacers / shims up to a maximum of 1.5 mm.

    Has anyone noticed anything about the spyder where it needs a 1.5mm shim under the front body mounts?

    #11871
    porsche917
    porsche917
    Moderator

    Russell,

    in light of the rear being slightly wider on the rear of the spyder will those cars have to run a narrower track that matches that of the coupe?

    #11879
    Radial TA
    Radial TA
    Participant

    For those of you selecting a custom livery for your Lola:

    #11880

    ALEREAL3D
    Participant

    The best of  last Randy’s post is where you can read that somebody’s sister is making 65 bucks an hour working on her computer

    THAT’S AMAZING

     

    AND ALSO THE LIVERIES !!!!!!!!

     

     

    #11881
    chapracer65
    chapracer65
    Participant

    Marty

    I have not noticed an issue with tire rub with the original wheels and tires.  It could be possible that the Slot.it tires and wheels are wider and might rub.  The chassis to body spacing can be adjusted with the outer front grub screws, pushing the body upward from the chassis.  I would like to check further to investigate this, but my initial feeling is that spacers would be allowed, but unnecessary, on the front posts.

    The coupe track can be widened 2mm from the spyder track.  As the coupe is ever so slightly slower than the spyder, this could be an equalizer.  If it gains too much advantage, the maximum track width could be specified but my initial inclination is not to spec it.  I will test this also.

    • This reply was modified 3 months, 4 weeks ago by chapracer65 chapracer65.
    #11884
    porsche917
    porsche917
    Moderator

    Russell,

    I did some digging last night and discovered that the reason for the 1.5mm spacers under the front body posts was due to how close to the track the small front spoiler is.  This is not an issue with our track but apparently is an issue with plastic tracks where the track can come in contact with the spoiler.  We should not have any issues at all with the spoilers and should not have to install any spacers under the front body posts.

    #11903
    chapracer65
    chapracer65
    Participant

    I did some testing today with three Thunderslot chassis in both the spyder and coupe bodies.  All three chassis had trued original front tires on stock plastic wheels.  One chassis had trued original treaded rears, the other two had trued Thunderslot slicks.  One of the latter chassis had a small weight in the nose, the other two had no weight added.  I made two runs of 10-15 laps with each chassis in the spyder, the coupe, and the coupe with the rear track widened about 2mm to fit the wider coupe body.  I recorded fastest lap and median lap in each run.

    The first chassis with the trued, treaded rear tires was not optimized and there was some tire chatter.  This was the slowest chassis with the least amount of track time.  The median times and best times between the spyder and the coupe were virtually identical.  After widening the rear track, both the median and fastest time improved about .1 sec.

    In chassis number two, the times were just about the same in all runs and variations.  There were slight time variations between runs with the same setup, but all the differences were so small as to be considered testing error.  There was little difference if the rear track was widened.

    In the fastest chassis, with the nose weight and the most practice laps, the spyder’s fast lap and median lap were both about .1 sec. faster than the coupe.  After widening the rear track, the coupe narrowed the times to about .05 sec. behind the spyder.

    These tests were done by just swapping the chassis, setting the mounting screws to about the same amount of body float.  No tweaking was tried to optimize setup.

    My conclusion from this is that the cars are close enough as is, especially if the coupe runs with wider rear track, so I stand by the rules as written.  When new cars come out, they will need to be checked against existing cars.

    • This reply was modified 3 months, 3 weeks ago by chapracer65 chapracer65.
    #11907
    porsche917
    porsche917
    Moderator

    Russell,

    Thank you so very much for this great write up on the differences between the coupe and spyder body performance.  I can’t wait to run these cars.

    #11909

    ALEREAL3D
    Participant

    Yes Russel thanks a lot for all your effort in creating this series as pure stock as possible

    Please don’t hesitate to ask us all anything that we can do to make it  better

    With your passion on the liveries and on the car performance  you really create a high standard in our club

    Thanks

    #11916
    porsche917
    porsche917
    Moderator

    I was working on a new Thunderslot spyder car last night and noticed an issue with the motor pod.  I reached out to the good folks at Slot Car Corner about it and they told me they have seen a couple of issues like this.  You may want to check your car and make sure the motor pod is correct.  The issue is with the moulding of the bushing holders.  The one on the left side of the car was angled out and not in alignment with the other side.  This caused a lot of friction and the rear wheels would not turn freely.  See the images.  Something worth checking out on your cars.

    #11917
    BarkingSpyder
    BarkingSpyder
    Participant

    BUSHING MOUNTS:
    Looks like a molding issue or heat somewhere in the storage/shipping process before assembly. As you were remarking yesterday the QA/testing certainly sucked and the car should have never been packaged!
    p.s. the bushings appear to have sleeve pressed into the Oilite main bushing- a pseudo ball bearing effect. They also need to be firmly held in the Pod, with the spacers and spur – does not appear to be enough room for a spacer – except maybe inside on the right/non-drive side.

    ... I gotta 427, Z-28 a thousand horsepower straight outta the gate ... Frank Marino, "Bottom of the Barrel Blues" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uUCRaGmoMt8

    • This reply was modified 3 months, 3 weeks ago by BarkingSpyder BarkingSpyder.
    #11921
    BarkingSpyder
    BarkingSpyder
    Participant

    SPYDER FRONT CLEARANCES
    — On my Spyder, the spoiler hits the track in two spots- the climb out of the esses (mild power loss is noticeable) and in the Green hairpin/button where it will porpoise out. I added 1.5mm nylon spacers under the body posts, 1.5g over the guide, and slightly sanded the spoiler. Braking spot also has an effect in the Green hairpin, a very late brake spot (last section of the fence) results in power-up at the actual turn-which pops the guide out. A slightly earlier brake spot (end of tree) results in earlier power up and less chance of porpoise.
    — Front wheels/tires – a Slot.It 14.5×8 alloy hub with Slot.It NoGrips works better than the stock wheels/tires.
    TYRES
    Replacement slick rear tires-these seem to be softer than Shore-30, maybe 25-7? Like the soft NSR tires they crack easy with ever-so-slightly ‘too much’ tire glue (even with rubberized slow drying glue …) Honestly I prefer the OEM treaded 30s with the tread trued off.
    FLOAT
    Fairly tight body float, with most of the float in the pod seems to work; prevents tire rub.
    WEIGHT
    In addition to the guide weight, my car handles better with 2 tungsten slugs mid-pod.
    PERFORMANCE
    I have not hit the 3.7s that a few people have hit, but yesterday had many 3.8s and 3.9s were the norm during about 250+ practice laps. !These are my first 3.8s in any car – thanks Russell for sponsoring this series!

    ... I gotta 427, Z-28 a thousand horsepower straight outta the gate ... Frank Marino, "Bottom of the Barrel Blues" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uUCRaGmoMt8

    • This reply was modified 3 months, 3 weeks ago by BarkingSpyder BarkingSpyder.
    #11930
    porsche917
    porsche917
    Moderator

    In putting my spyder back together tonight I realized another reason why Thunderslot may have been talking about putting a 1.5mm spacer under the front body posts.

    As you can see from the pictures below the front axle mounts come in contact with the body before the chassis makes contact with the front body posts.  I’m guessing but I would say that the space is about 1.5mm.  The chassis is flexible enough that it will easily bend to mount flush to the body posts but the chassis is then pressing hard against the front axle posts which cancels out the body float.  I believe we should allow the 1.5mm spacers under the front body posts to allow the chassis more float.  Thoughts?

    #11940
    chapracer65
    chapracer65
    Participant

    Marty, sorry about the issue with the motor pod.  I have a spare motor pod if you need it.

    As far as the clearance issues, I am fine with racers putting whatever spacers they want on the front body posts, but, as I said it is unnecessary if you use the front outboard grub screws on the chassis.  Screwing these inward raises the front of the body above the chassis by 2mm or more and you can adjust it as needed without having to fiddle with spacers.

    And Mark, I am not sure what front wheels you are using, but the ones we spec’d were the 15 X 8 (Part #1508215A) wheels.  I measure 13.6 mm at the wheel lip and 15.93 mm over the rib.

    • This reply was modified 3 months, 2 weeks ago by chapracer65 chapracer65.
    • This reply was modified 3 months, 2 weeks ago by chapracer65 chapracer65.
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