THUNDER SLOT DISCUSSION

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This topic contains 57 replies, has 7 voices, and was last updated by BarkingSpyder BarkingSpyder 1 day, 7 hours ago.

Viewing 13 posts - 46 through 58 (of 58 total)
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  • #11947
    BarkingSpyder
    BarkingSpyder
    Participant

    I am using the correct wheel – the smaller 14.5mm wheel wont hold the SlotIt Nogrip tires tight. I typed the wrong size.

    ... I gotta 427, Z-28 a thousand horsepower straight outta the gate ... Frank Marino, "Bottom of the Barrel Blues" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uUCRaGmoMt8

    #11965

    428cobrajet
    Participant

    Hello everyone
    Eddie here, my thunderslot white kit just arrived with missing body mount screws. I need a resource on where to find the right body screws. Can I used fly body screws because I have extras on those. I have not test fit those body screws. I’m debating on the livery on my Lola coupe. I’m leaning towards this from 1968 sebring race.
    I’m going to keep my tires stock and trued. I’ll be testing it this Thursday evening then will make necessary rules compliance adjustments. Looking forward to racing

    • This reply was modified 2 months, 2 weeks ago by  428cobrajet.
    Attachments:
    1. Screenshot_2018-03-11-13-40-22-1.png

    #11971
    BarkingSpyder
    BarkingSpyder
    Participant

    Eddie, I have some spare screws. That may be safer than potentially splitting the body posts from screws with a different pitch or width. I will bring Thurs.
    Tuning Action Items:
    — Lightly glue rear tires on wheels.
    — Carefully true off the treads on the stock/OEM rear tires.
    — Optionally- Replace front wheels with Slot.It alloy 15.8×8.2 wheels (W1580-8215A, W15808225A, WH1183, WH1184, WH1210) front tires with Slot.It SIPT15 17x10mm ZeroGrips
    — Add 3mm dia grub screws (Kings does Not have them) to the chassis pan to adjust body and skirt height to prevent hitting the track in the hairpin and hillclimb. See Russells earlier posts [11940][11930][11903]
    — Add 0.5mm spacer to guide shaft (to prevent pop-out de-slot in corners)
    — Adjust axle grub screws to barely fly the front tires 0.5 to 1mm (credit card) over track.
    — Experiment with adding 1-3gm weight in nose/guide area (prevent pop-out de-slot)
    — These must remain stock: body, chassis, pod, pinion, crown, motor, axles

    ... I gotta 427, Z-28 a thousand horsepower straight outta the gate ... Frank Marino, "Bottom of the Barrel Blues" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uUCRaGmoMt8

    #11997

    428cobrajet
    Participant

    Very cool, thank you so much. I plan on coming, Thursday late afternoon. I’m looking forward to seeing everyone hopefully

    #12036
    BarkingSpyder
    BarkingSpyder
    Participant

    MOTOR/GUIDE WIRE PROBLEMS
    Heads-up, the motor wires are susceptible to breaking at the eyelet/ferrel. Thunderslot flattens normal size ferrels, then secures them against the pickup-braid with fat grub screws (2.5mm, 3mm?) much like BRM guides. **The flattening creates a sharp edge that cuts the sparse strands in the thin (1mm?) stock wire. Similar to a solder-break or lose eyelet the only symptoms are periodic power loss followed soon by complete lack of response to the controller.

    SOLUTION-You must replace the wire (since they leave very little slack in the stock wires).
    Using a large size ferrel (2 to 2.5mm) will work; and if used the grub screws are not needed and in fact cannot screw in deep enough to stay in the guide.
    But if you again use normal/small ferrels, they require flattening so that the grubs can grab enough ‘meat’ in the threads to hold the braid and ferrel in the guide. Obviously this continues the risk of the wires being cut by the ferrel.

    ... I gotta 427, Z-28 a thousand horsepower straight outta the gate ... Frank Marino, "Bottom of the Barrel Blues" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uUCRaGmoMt8

    #12054

    ALEREAL3D
    Participant

    Just as a provision I bough 1 mm diam Thunderslot wire and I was planning to change the original.

    I was waiting to ask Russ if I can do that once I show him the wire

    I have 1 meter of that thing, if somebody needs and is approved by the race manager  please let me know

    Please Russel let me know where  and when can I show you this wire

    And Thanks

    PD. TO Russel did you check the clear paint yet???

    Regards

    #12057
    chapracer65
    chapracer65
    Participant

    Motor wires can be replaced with any wire; it does not have to be Thunderslot.

    (I recommend the new graphene NanoWire from Beaugus Slots)

    #12058

    ALEREAL3D
    Participant

    I have only 2 feet of that one Russ

    I bought it at the slot car department of my HEB

    Always fresh

    #12121

    428cobrajet
    Participant

    She’s stock plus lead weight up front behind the guide.
    She tends to flip or fly off.
    I have a stock guide and I do have a famous slot spacer that can fit the post of the guide. I’m not gonna install it.
    Tried to fit slot rear tires off the slot it matra, fit well will bring it just case.
    Can race the first half tomorrow

    Attachments:
    1. 0406182348.jpg

    #12123

    428cobrajet
    Participant

    I had a great time doing my first race today, even with a wonky car. Tight body screws, tyres need a little more truing. All thd club members are great, welcoming and very very helpful. Its a learning experience and I am looking forward to the next race and growing.
    I appreciate it very much!
    Thank you y’all

    #12129
    BarkingSpyder
    BarkingSpyder
    Participant

    Eddie-you may want someone to walk through each aspect of your car to determine where the ‘drag’ was that was slowing you down. With minimal tuning your car should be turning 4.1-3.9s easy.
    Slot.It tires are Non-Spec – I have some ThunderSlots if you need a pair.
    You cannot change the guide, but about 3gm of weight and a 1mm spacer may help prevent the flips and rolls in the tight corners. You may need spacers on the front posts – see previous posts about flexing the front axle carriers when they press against the body.
    Other flips and rolls are just you getting use to the braking spots in the corners.

    ... I gotta 427, Z-28 a thousand horsepower straight outta the gate ... Frank Marino, "Bottom of the Barrel Blues" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uUCRaGmoMt8

    #12184
    BarkingSpyder
    BarkingSpyder
    Participant

    ANOTHER ‘TIRE’ SERIES
    The T/S stock tires wear quickly. I am on my 3rd set. When new and minimally trued (some tread barely visible) the larger diameter resulted in a “taller” (aka. higher) gear ratio and hence faster times (3.8 regular, occasional 3.7s) from the longer roll-out.

    Now, my chassis is hugging the track, obvious by the scruff marks on the motor-can. Handling is great b/c of the higher magnetic-downforce (and lower CG), but I can barely creep into the upper 3.8s 🙁
    Looks like for this weekend I need to true up some new shoes!

    ... I gotta 427, Z-28 a thousand horsepower straight outta the gate ... Frank Marino, "Bottom of the Barrel Blues" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uUCRaGmoMt8

    #12298
    BarkingSpyder
    BarkingSpyder
    Participant

    Thanks Shawn! I followed the tuning advice you gave to John last Sat about keeping the front tires close to the track and hence keeping the CG of the rear relatively ‘down’ to prevent rolls & fishtails. By tuning my guide height and “flying” height I got back more consistent 3.8s that seemed to grow to 3.9s as rear tire wear increased – and yet I am still Not porpoising out in the green hairpin.
    Again – Thanks!

    ... I gotta 427, Z-28 a thousand horsepower straight outta the gate ... Frank Marino, "Bottom of the Barrel Blues" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uUCRaGmoMt8

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