Tagged: Thunder Slot Specs
- March 3, 2018 at 10:33 AM #11947
I am using the correct wheel – the smaller 14.5mm wheel wont hold the SlotIt Nogrip tires tight. I typed the wrong size.
... Fire up the willing engine, responding with a roar! Tires spitting gravel, I commit my weekly crime... Rush - Red BarchettaMarch 11, 2018 at 1:45 PM #11965
Eddie here, my thunderslot white kit just arrived with missing body mount screws. I need a resource on where to find the right body screws. Can I used fly body screws because I have extras on those. I have not test fit those body screws. I’m debating on the livery on my Lola coupe. I’m leaning towards this from 1968 sebring race.
I’m going to keep my tires stock and trued. I’ll be testing it this Thursday evening then will make necessary rules compliance adjustments. Looking forward to racing
- This reply was modified 7 months, 1 week ago by 428cobrajet.
Attachments:March 11, 2018 at 4:31 PM #11971
Eddie, I have some spare screws. That may be safer than potentially splitting the body posts from screws with a different pitch or width. I will bring Thurs.
Tuning Action Items:
— Lightly glue rear tires on wheels.
— Carefully true off the treads on the stock/OEM rear tires.
— Optionally- Replace front wheels with Slot.It alloy 15.8×8.2 wheels (W1580-8215A, W15808225A, WH1183, WH1184, WH1210) front tires with Slot.It SIPT15 17x10mm ZeroGrips
— Add 3mm dia grub screws (Kings does Not have them) to the chassis pan to adjust body and skirt height to prevent hitting the track in the hairpin and hillclimb. See Russells earlier posts 
— Add 0.5mm spacer to guide shaft (to prevent pop-out de-slot in corners)
— Adjust axle grub screws to barely fly the front tires 0.5 to 1mm (credit card) over track.
— Experiment with adding 1-3gm weight in nose/guide area (prevent pop-out de-slot)
— These must remain stock: body, chassis, pod, pinion, crown, motor, axles
... Fire up the willing engine, responding with a roar! Tires spitting gravel, I commit my weekly crime... Rush - Red BarchettaMarch 12, 2018 at 9:29 PM #11997
Very cool, thank you so much. I plan on coming, Thursday late afternoon. I’m looking forward to seeing everyone hopefullyMarch 25, 2018 at 1:52 PM #12036
MOTOR/GUIDE WIRE PROBLEMS
Heads-up, the motor wires are susceptible to breaking at the eyelet/ferrel. Thunderslot flattens normal size ferrels, then secures them against the pickup-braid with fat grub screws (2.5mm, 3mm?) much like BRM guides. **The flattening creates a sharp edge that cuts the sparse strands in the thin (1mm?) stock wire. Similar to a solder-break or lose eyelet the only symptoms are periodic power loss followed soon by complete lack of response to the controller.
SOLUTION-You must replace the wire (since they leave very little slack in the stock wires).
Using a large size ferrel (2 to 2.5mm) will work; and if used the grub screws are not needed and in fact cannot screw in deep enough to stay in the guide.
But if you again use normal/small ferrels, they require flattening so that the grubs can grab enough ‘meat’ in the threads to hold the braid and ferrel in the guide. Obviously this continues the risk of the wires being cut by the ferrel.
... Fire up the willing engine, responding with a roar! Tires spitting gravel, I commit my weekly crime... Rush - Red BarchettaMarch 26, 2018 at 9:54 PM #12054
Just as a provision I bough 1 mm diam Thunderslot wire and I was planning to change the original.
I was waiting to ask Russ if I can do that once I show him the wire
I have 1 meter of that thing, if somebody needs and is approved by the race manager please let me know
Please Russel let me know where and when can I show you this wire
PD. TO Russel did you check the clear paint yet???
RegardsMarch 27, 2018 at 9:10 AM #12057
Motor wires can be replaced with any wire; it does not have to be Thunderslot.
(I recommend the new graphene NanoWire from Beaugus Slots)March 27, 2018 at 11:01 PM #12058
I have only 2 feet of that one Russ
I bought it at the slot car department of my HEB
Always freshApril 7, 2018 at 12:04 AM #12121
She’s stock plus lead weight up front behind the guide.
She tends to flip or fly off.
I have a stock guide and I do have a famous slot spacer that can fit the post of the guide. I’m not gonna install it.
Tried to fit slot rear tires off the slot it matra, fit well will bring it just case.
Can race the first half tomorrow
Attachments:April 7, 2018 at 9:35 PM #12123
I had a great time doing my first race today, even with a wonky car. Tight body screws, tyres need a little more truing. All thd club members are great, welcoming and very very helpful. Its a learning experience and I am looking forward to the next race and growing.
I appreciate it very much!
Thank you y’allApril 12, 2018 at 7:17 PM #12129
Eddie-you may want someone to walk through each aspect of your car to determine where the ‘drag’ was that was slowing you down. With minimal tuning your car should be turning 4.1-3.9s easy.
Slot.It tires are Non-Spec – I have some ThunderSlots if you need a pair.
You cannot change the guide, but about 3gm of weight and a 1mm spacer may help prevent the flips and rolls in the tight corners. You may need spacers on the front posts – see previous posts about flexing the front axle carriers when they press against the body.
Other flips and rolls are just you getting use to the braking spots in the corners.April 27, 2018 at 5:26 PM #12184
ANOTHER ‘TIRE’ SERIES
The T/S stock tires wear quickly. I am on my 3rd set. When new and minimally trued (some tread barely visible) the larger diameter resulted in a “taller” (aka. higher) gear ratio and hence faster times (3.8 regular, occasional 3.7s) from the longer roll-out.
Now, my chassis is hugging the track, obvious by the scruff marks on the motor-can. Handling is great b/c of the higher magnetic-downforce (and lower CG), but I can barely creep into the upper 3.8s 🙁
Looks like for this weekend I need to true up some new shoes!May 23, 2018 at 10:26 AM #12298
Thanks Shawn! I followed the tuning advice you gave to John last Sat about keeping the front tires close to the track and hence keeping the CG of the rear relatively ‘down’ to prevent rolls & fishtails. By tuning my guide height and “flying” height I got back more consistent 3.8s that seemed to grow to 3.9s as rear tire wear increased – and yet I am still Not porpoising out in the green hairpin.
Again – Thanks!May 28, 2018 at 11:46 AM #12323
Clarification to 12298, previously I was regularly getting 3.8s that eventually creeped up to 3.9s (but the handling was superb) as the tires wore down. With the fine-tuned front-end setup the 3.8s were significantly more frequent (with reliable handling) on a range of worn rear tire sizes.
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